Jewellery has been used by different cultures across the world from very early in history. It is adornments that can consist of many shapes and forms, from shell necklaces to ornate jewel-encrusted pieces. Throughout history, jewellery has meant a lot of different things, from a sign of class to protection from certain dangers.
In this blog, the team here at Ian Mundie & Son dive into the world of jewellery, spotlighting how it has been used throughout history and highlighting popular designs that have both waned in popularity and are prominent today.
The Ancient Era
Evidence of jewellery has been dated back to ancient civilisations from around 3000 to 400 BC. During this time, jewellery was often very basic, such as amulets with designs such as stars and flowers.
The materials used were often just what a maker had to hand, such as stones, wood, shells, pebbles, and bones. In these times, jewellery normally showcased various customs and traditions. Some believed that certain materials in jewellery could help cure ailments, whilst others buried it with their dead as a sign of respect.
It was often used as a mark of status or practical jewellery that could help protect from the dangers of life, such as a bone fashioned into a knife worn around the neck in case predators attack.
The Medieval Era
The ability to work metals revolutionised the development of jewellery and moving into the medieval era, jewellery started to reflect this. It also began to reflect the difference between nobility and commoners during this time.
Royalty and nobility would wear jewellery adorned with gold, silver and precious metals, whilst commoners would more often wear cheaper items made from copper, pewter and brass. Colour was highly valued, so precious gems, enamel and other brightly coloured pieces were the desired pieces of this era. Enamel, ground glass fired at high temperatures onto a metal surface, would allow jewellers to colour their designs onto pieces.
Renaissance Era
This era truly expanded every area of society, with trade expanded across the continents and a lot of development in plenty of fields, such as art, culture and design. This meant that jewellery could reach whole new depths and dimensions.
Pieces became more elaborate and colourful, and the importance of religion in this era shone through, particularly on pieces such as pendants, which were extremely popular in this era. Particular types of stones were thought to protect from specific things, with all sorts of beliefs ranging from preventing toothache to dispelling melancholy.
Baroque & Georgian Era
Changes in jewellery often reflected the changes in fashion. In the Baroque era, many started to wear softer and lighter dresses, which resulted in different styles to help match this. This included precious gemstones such as diamond, ruby, pearl and topaz, as well as a lot more natural shapes such as flowers and leaves.
During the initial part of the Georgian era, only the aristocracy were allowed to wear jewellery, with this only changing towards the end of the era. Ornate bright jewellery was the most popular, with two of the most prominent techniques being Repousse and Cantanille. Repousse involved hammering malleable metals into intricate designs, while Cantanille involved creating intricate wirework designs that resemble embroidery figures.
Arts & Crafts Movement
In the last years of the 19th century, many rebelled against the world becoming more and more industrialised with the Arts and Crafts movement. Jewellers rejected machine-led factory-produced jewellery and instead focused on hand-crafted items.
This created more unique designs that stood out against the more affordable, mass-produced items. Mass-produced items were very formulaic and repetitive, so Arts and Crafts jewellers focused on using curves and designs that showcased their unique vision.
Art Nouveau & Art Deco
The 1900s brought with it both the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. Firstly, Art Nouveau styles began in the late 1800s and continued into the early 1900s. The floral motifs of previous eras were abandoned for more organic pieces, using materials such as glass, horn and enamel instead of precious stones. Insects were a popular theme during this era, such as dragonflies and butterflies.
Whilst the world was plagued by wars and depression over the first half of the 20th century, Art Deco jewellery came to the forefront. Sharp, geometric patterns inspired by the Far East became popular, with a greater concentration of gemstones being used, and gold returning to fashion as it was much cheaper than platinum.
Artists and designers from other fields also became involved in the design, which would foreshadow what would become more prominent in contemporary jewellery. This is also around the time platinum started to be commonly used in jewellery.
WW2 And The Fifties
The Second World War brought with it a retro reprise, with jewellery having to reflect the materials available at the time. Platinum and white gold were needed to make weapons, so many popular styles had to be refined and worked around to work with the materials at hand. This era is marked by plenty of yellow gold pieces, with chunky and futuristic designs that lacked intricate adornments due to the lack of materials.
Following this period, there was a significant effort to make jewellery designs as ornate as they once were. With plenty of gems and bright jewels, as well as a lot of floral designs. The retro style was put aside for more refined pieces, reflecting how people had more money and the resources available were greater.
Contemporary Jewellery
Nowadays jewellery is truly anything you can make. The development of technology such as 3D printers and design software can enable a person or designer to create unique pieces of jewellery. Designs can be a fusion of past and present, drawing inspiration from different historical eras and giving them a modern touch.
Different materials such as plastics, paper, and textiles are not used in jewellery, which goes against the common theme that status must be marked by high-quality jewellery. Instead of simply being ornate, jewellery can now be described as wearable art, pushing the boundaries of fashion.
Ian Mundie & Son - Bespoke Fine Jewellery Design
Here at Ian Mundie & Son, we are able to craft bespoke jewellery for whatever occasion. We can create both modern and classic designs, so if you are looking to incorporate a certain era of history into your design, we can work with you to create a bespoke solution designed exactly to your requirements.
We specialise in diamond jewellery, but our ring designers are able to help you create a bespoke design that meets your requirements, using the highest quality stones and metals to create your piece. As well as this, we offer jewellery repairs and refurbishments to ensure your pieces are treated and maintained with care in case of any damage.
For fine jewellery design, get in touch with Ian Mundie & Son today.
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